Wednesday 25 February 2015

Step by Step of Miss Havisham Look

Equipment:
Make-up
-Foundation palette
-Contour palette
-Supra colour palette
-Loose translucent powder
-Duo lash glue
-Liquid latex
-White skin base
-Cape
-Flour and water
-Make-up wipes
-Bowl x2
-Buffing brush
-Contour brush
-Stippling brush
-Powder brush
-Spatular
-Hair clips
-Paint brush
-Small flat brush x2
-Small angled brush
-Disposable mascara wand

Hair
-Dry shampoo
-Hair pins
-Hair elastics
-Wig
-Wig cap
-Hair grips

Styling
-Wedding dress
-Necklace
-Veil

Step by step:
1. I applied a mixture of the white skin base and foundation colours Alabaster, FS38 and G177, to make her skin look slightly more pale than it was naturally. I did this with a Real Techniques bussing brush to buff it into the skin, taking it down to the neck. 
2. To achieve the dark circles, I took some purple from the supra colour palette on a small angled brush on her eyelids and on the inner half of her eye bags. I blended the colour in with my finger.
3. I then made a brown colour and mixed it in with some green and added it to the inner corner and a tiny bit in the middle of the eye bag with the same small angled brush. I blended the colour in with my finger.
4. I added a tiny bit of yellow on the outer half of the eye bags and on the inner corner with my finger.


5. I then added some red supra colour along her lash line with a small flat brush.

6. I powdered all around the eyes to make it look more skin-like and matte.
7. I then powdered the rest of the face and neck with a powder brush and translucent powder. 


8. I mixed some flour and water together in a bowl to a thin consistency. 
9. Using a spatula, I smoothed the mixture onto the areas where I wanted dry skin. I made sure that I blended out the edges to make it look more seamless and natural. 


10. I applied some liquid latex with a paint brush to the area I wanted the wart to be and then I added a very small amount of scrunched up tissue on top and secured the tissue by dabbing more liquid latex on top. Through out the makeup look, I kept going back to the wart and adding more latex to give it the height and texture I wanted.
11. I dabbed some red supra colour onto the lips and just outside the lip line to give a sore effect.
12. I then added some flour mixture on top, making sure that the edges were very smooth and blended.
13. Using my contour brush, I took some of the grey toned bronzer in my contour palette and contoured under the cheek bones, on the temples and under the chin. 

14. To emphasise the contour I went over it with some grey eyeshadow and the same brush.
15. I mixed some yellow and white supra colour together to make an off white colour. I then brushed this through the eyebrows with a disposable mascara wand. 

  
16. Using a stippling brush, I lightly dabbed some red supra colour on top of some of the dry patches around the face. 
17. Using a small flat brush, I added some red supra colour around the nostrils to make them looks sore. 


18. I added some duo lash glue to two patches on the bottom lip and let them dry. 
19. After the glue was dry I picked at some side of the glue, until I had made a cut effect, with one side lifted up.
20. Using a small flat brush, I put some red supra colour underneath the flaps to make them look like they were bleeding.


21. I next took the cape off and used the same mixture of white skin base and foundations to buff into the chest and any areas I thought would be shown in the final image. I used a buffing brush to do this.
22. I then used a big powder brush and some translucent powder to powder all over the chest, neck and shoulders.
23. I contoured the model's collar bones with some grey eye shadow and the contour brush.
24. I dabbed some red supra colour onto the two patches that I wanted there to be dry skin. I did this with my fingers.
25. I then added some flour mixture over the top with a spatular, making sure that the edges were blended. 


26. I used a small flat brush to add some red supra colour on the skin around the wart to make it look sore.
27. Then I added some purple/brown on the edges of the wart to add some dimension and to make it a realistic colour. 


28. I put on the wig cap to prep the hair for the wig. I made sure that all the hairs round the edges were tucked away. 
(Tip: Use some hair pins to secure the wig cap to the hair and make sure it is as close to the natural hair line as possible. Also make sure to keep the ears outside the wig cap.)


29. I then lined the wig up at the front of the head, asked my model to hold the front of the wig, and then pulled it to the back to cover the whole head. 
(Tip: Use some hair grips to secure the wig to the hair and wig cap by looping the grip under.)
30. Make sure the wig is in a rough centre parting and section off the two side sections and bring them forwards.
31. Take the rest of the hair up into a mid/high ponytail.
32. Plait the ponytail loosely and then twist it up into a bun. 
33. Pull some of the hairs out to give it a more messy look.
34. Use white supra colour on a disposable mascara wand to colour any hair that is showing around her neck.
35. Position the veil around the head and under the bun.


 Final Look


 


















Close-ups of the Look 

 





Final Improvements:
I bought the wig that I'm using off Amazon and it was advertised as a zombie wig, therefore the top of the wig had a lot of height to it. I didn't think that this look was working very well for an early victorian hairstyle, so I sewed the inside of the wig so that it would sit flatter on the head. I am really happy with how the wig looks now and I think it is more accurate to the era. 
Another improvement would be to pick at the flour and break it up so that it looks more like flakey skin. I also felt that the duo lash glue on the lips, looking a bit like fangs, so I will make sure that the slit on the right is further over and that the other slit is closer to the middle.

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