Thursday 23 April 2015

Practising Claudia on my Chosen Model

Make Up
Equipment:
-Foundation palette
-Buffing brush
-Small fluffy brush
-Big fluffy brush
-Translucent powder
-Contour palette
-Fluffy contour brush
-Disposable mascara wand
-Red supra colour
-Fluffy domed eye shadow brush
-Black eye shadow 
-Red eye shadow
-Small angled brush
-Dark red supra colour
-Rigid collodion

-Small flat brush

Step by step:
1. I first mixed foundation colours Fair Olive and G177 to get a colour slightly paler than her natural skin tone. 
2. I applied this all over the face, ears and down the neck with a buffing brush to even out her skin tone and cover any imperfections. 
3. I then used a small fluffy brush to apply the foundation colour under her eyes and over her eyelids.  
4. Using a big fluffy brush, I then applied some loose translucent powder all over the face and wherever else I put the foundation. 

5. To warm the skin up I used a warm bronzer, on a blush brush, to contour the cheek bones, temples and anywhere where the sun would naturally hit the face, so around the forehead, on the nose and on the chin. 
6. I then contoured her cheekbones and temples further with a grey toned bronzer and a contour brush. I also lightly added this to either side of the nose. 
7. I added some highlighter to the tops of her cheek bones to give her a dewier and less matte look.

8. I then drew some lines across one of her eyes with a small angled brush and red supra colour. I made the lines about two or three brush strokes thick.
9. I then added a straight line of the darker red colour along one side of each line to give subtle depth.

10. I then brushed some rigid collodion along each line, making sure not to get it too close to the eye. I applied it above the eyebrow, a little bit under the eyebrow and then I left a gap before drawing it under the eye. 
11. I added about 6 coats of this until I was happy with how the scars looked. 

12. Once the rigid collodion had dried and I was happy with the amount of layers added, I applied some foundation over the scars with a small flat brush and then rubbed it in with my finger to give it a more natural look. 
13. I used a cool toned pencil to fill her eyebrows in and brushed them through to soften them slightly.
Scars without foundation.
Scars after foundation.
14. I dabbed some red supra colour all over her lips with my finger and smudged it round the edges slightly to make it look like she had maybe eaten something and it had smudged or something.

15. Using a fluffy domed eye shadow brush I patted some black eye shadow onto the lid and used the same black eyeshadow and brush to blend into the crease. I used the same brush to blend the black eye shadow along the lower lash line as I want a very messy and smoked out look. 

Hair
Equipment:
-Paddle brush
-Tail comb
-Clear hair elastics

Step by step:
1. Brush the hair with a paddle brush.
2. I created a middle parting with the tail comb and continued the centre parting all the way to the back of the hair line.
3. I then pulled the hair to the back of the ear on each side. separated each half into three and plaited both sides of the hair. 
4. I secured both plaits with clear elastic bands. 
5. I then pulled out any shorter hairs and rubbed the top of the hair to make it look a bit more messy. I also pulled at the plaits slightly to give the sam messy look. 

Close-up of the scars.
I like that I used a slightly darker and warmer bronzer to bronze up the face because she still looked pale, but had a healthy colour to her, in contrast with the very pale vampire, Quentin. I think that the red lines across the eyes were too straight and therefore looked fake. I will therefore try to make the lines look more slanted in my final image. I like that the scars across the eyes are different lengths and looks slightly uneven as this makes them look more realistic. I like that I brought the black eye shadow into the inner corners as it gave her a more tired look and tried to keep the shape round to keep it from looking too glamorous. In this practice I forgot to add the red eye shadow under her lower lash line which shows how important it is to have images and a face chart to work from and also notes to follow! I will make sure I don't forget to do this step for my final images. I think that the hair looks way too flat and limp and so in my final shoot I will add dry shampoo to give her fine, soft hair some more texture and I will back comb the bottom layers to give the hair more body and lift. I said previously that I wanted to add red bows at the bottom of both plaits and even though I wanted it to be clear that she was inspired by Annabelle the doll, I think it would look too cute and innocent for her brutal character. I think that her skin looks too matte and I wanted there to be a clear contrast between the very matter and powdery finish to Quentin's skin and the more bronzed and dewy/sweaty look of Claudia's. In my research I found that the makeup artist would spray water on the characters to make them look more sweaty so I will experiment with this before my final shoot. The images below show my model's clean skin before and after I sprayed her with water. I really like how is genuinely looks like she is sweaty and I will use this technique in my final shoot!

After water spray.
Before water spray

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