Experimenting and Developing Miss Havisham's Make-Up

After analysing my face charts of Miss Havisham, I chose the one below as my favourite. I love the witch aspect to it, with the wart on her nose, as Pip describes her as 'the witch of the place'. I experimented with different ways of portraying this face chart onto my model, as shown below.

My Chosen Face Chart

Practice 1

Step by step:

1. I applied a mixture of the white skin base and some foundation colours, to make her skin look slightly more pale than it was naturally, with a foundation brush and then buffed it in with a big fluffy brush.

2. I next added a brown/purple supra colour mixture all round her eyes where there was naturally some darkness.
3. I added some red supra colour along her lower lash line and on the outer corner.
4. I then dabbed some yellow supra colour around the outer edges to make it look more bruised.

5. I mixed some black and white supra colour together and, using a small angled brush, I drew in any wrinkles that she already had to emphasise them. I asked my model to make exaggerated facial expressions to make it easier to see where her natural wrinkle lines were, if they weren't obvious.

6. I mixed some white and yellow supra colour together and, with a small flat brush, I drew a line underneath where I had drawn the wrinkles to give the wrinkles some more depth. If the wrinkles were drawn downwards, I would put the white line to the right side so that they all matched up.

7. I blended out the wrinkles slightly with my fingers to give them a softer edge.
8. I mixed together some supra colour colours to make a grey/purple colour and contoured her cheek bones, her temples and round her chin, with a medium flat brush. I blended the colours out with my fingers.
9. I dabbed a thick layer of duo lash glue to her lips and also on a patch on her cheek and I let them both dry.
10. Once the glue was dried, I started to pick and rub the glue to make it look like dry, flakey skin.
11. I added some red supra colour, with a small angled brush, into the areas where the glue had left holes, to make it look sore and bloody.

Close-up of the lips.

Close-up of the dry skin effect on her cheeks.

12. Using a dense stipple brush, I stippled on some red supra colour to make it look like broken veins.

13. I brushed some white supra colour through her eyebrows with a disposable mascara wand.

I was not happy with the outcome of this look. I think it looks too over the top and obviously fake, which would not be suitable to film or TV. However, I think this makeup look would work well for a theatre performance because the makeup would need to be more dramatic so that it translated to even the people sitting at the back. I think the darkness around the eyes looks too unnatural and too dark; I also think that the colouring is off. I will therefore take a photo my model's eye bags without any makeup on to have a closer look at the colouring. The wrinkles look way too obvious and harsh and if I still wanted to draw on the lines, I would have to blend them out way more and make the colours more subtle. I think that just using white on the eyebrows make them look slightly blue, which I don't want, so I will experiment with adding a hint of yellow in there next time. I am happy with how the broken veins came out as I think they look natural and not too obvious for the camera lens. I don't think that the lips look natural because I think the holes in the glue are too big and they wouldn't be round. I am happy with how the dry skin on her cheeks look, however I mad to be quite rough when rubbed the skin, so I may look into different ways of making dry and flakey skin. 

Practice 2

I wanted to experiment with different materials that would give the effect of dry and flakey skin. I first tried to use some fullers earth. I mixed some fullers earth with some water to make a thin paste and I thin applied it, with a spatula, to the areas I wanted there to be dry skin. After letting it dry, I applied a mixture of the white skin base and foundation all over the skin and over the fullers earth. However, I soon realised that this was not going to work, as the fullers earth was too dark to be covered and blended into the skin properly.

Practice 3

Step by step:

1. I mixed some flour and water together in a bowl to a thin consistency. 

2. Using a spatula, I smoothed the mixture onto the areas where I wanted dry skin. I made sure that I blended out the edges to make it look more seamless and natural. 

3. I applied a mixture of the white skin base and some foundation colours, to make her skin look slightly more pale than it was naturally, with a foundation brush and then buffed it in with a big fluffy brush all over the face and neck. I did this step after the mixture had fully dried.

4. Using a dense stipple brush, I stippled on some red supra colour on the patches where there was dry skin to make it look sore and irritated.

5. I added some flour mixture to the lips and let that dry.

6. I also applied some flout mixture down the right side of her neck because I wanted it to look like she had eczema. 

7. I powdered the face with some loose translucent powder and a big fluffy brush.
8. Using a mixture of the grey toned bronzer in my contour palette and a grey eyeshadow, I contoured  under the cheekbones, on the temples and either side of the nose.

9. I took a close-up photo of her eyes with no makeup on so I could see the colouring and placement of the colour around her eyes.
10. I then emphasised these colours by using my supra colour palette and a small angled brush.
11. I used the purple form the palette on her eyelids and on the inner half of her eye bags.
12. I then made a brown colour and mixed it in with some green and added it to the inner corner.
13. I added a tiny bit of yellow on the outer half of the eye bags and on the inner corner.
14. I then added some red supra colour along her lash line.
15. I powdered all around the eyes to make it look more skin-like and matte.

Eye with no makeup on.

Eye with makeup on to emphasise the natural colouring around the eyes.

16. I added some red supra colour over the top of the flour mixture on her neck to make it look more sore and irritated. 

17. I added some duo lash glue on the centre of the bottom lip.

18. After the glue was dry, I picked and rubbed the lips to make it look like dry skin.

19. I added some red supra colour in any of the holes with a small angled brush.

I was a lot more happy with this result because I don't think it looks so fake and theatrical. I think the main improvement is that I didn't draw in any wrinkles. I chose my model because she was older and had wrinkles, therefore I don't think I need to draw in even more wrinkles. I am so happy with how the flour mixture created dry and flakey looking skin! It dries really quickly and the colouring matches the skin perfectly! I think adding red to the dry skin gives it a sorer look, as if she has been scratching it. However, I don't think the flower worked very well around the lips because I think I put too much of it on. I think if I blended the flour mixture out and applied a thinner layer then it could work a lot better. I also think that the holes in the glue as still to big, so I will work on making these look smaller and less round. I am really excited with how the eye bags turned out because I think they look so much more natural and therefore so much more appropriate for film! 

Note: Half way through this practice I felt that the dry skin down the side of her neck didn't look red enough; I therefore took it off and applied some red supra colour before applying the flour mixture, as it gave a more painful and sore look. 

Improvements on Practice 3

Eyebrows:
I mixed some white and yellow supra colour together and brushed it through her eyebrows to make them look grey and I am really happy with the results.

Lips:

I felt like the lips didn't look sore enough, so I decided to first cover them with red supra colour. I made sure that I used my fingers to really blend out the lines and I took the colour outside of the lip line slightly. I then added a very thin layer of the flour mixture over the lips and blended the edges out very well. After this had dried, I put dabbed some duo lash glue on the two areas that I wanted there to be a split in the skin. After they had dried, I rubbed the lip sideways to peel back some go the glue. I found this worked a lot better in making it look split and not have lots of holes in them. I added some more red supra colour in the splits to make them look bloody.

My Final Makeup Look

How to: Burns

Equipment:
-Block Gelatine
-Supra colour palette
-Bowl
-Microwave
-Spatula
-Hair dryer with cool setting
-Glycerin
-Sponge
-Black stipple sponge
-Small detail brush
-Big, stiff brush

Step by step:
1. Put the block of gelatine in a bowl and put it in the microwave, checking it every 10 seconds, and stirring.
2. Once the gelatine is melted, test how hot it is on the back of your hand, and then dab it where you want it on the skin with a spatula. Work relatively quickly, as it cools down quite quickly.
3. If you are unhappy with an edge or section, you can remove and smooth it with warm water and a cotton bud.
4. Powder over the top of the set gelatine with a powder puff and loose translucent powder.
5. Using a small brush, dab some supra colour (red, purples, yellows) the burn and blend it with your fingers. Add darker colours where you want to add depth.
6. Dab some more red with your fingers around the edges and on the burn to make it look sore and blistered.
7. Using a sponge, dab some foundation that matches the skin lightly over the burn and over the edges to blend the burn into the skin.
8. Using a big, stiff brush or a black stipple sponge, dab some more red over the burn and blend with fingers.

9. Add some blood to the burn in any holes or dents.

10. Add some pus to any areas you think may be infected.

11. Using a black stipple sponge, add some glycerin over the top of the whole burn to make it look shiny and wet. Add some to the edges to blend them with the skin.

You can peel the gelatine off and reapply at a later date it required.

I have never used these products before so I am really happy with how my burn turned out. I found that the gelatine hardened really quickly so some of my edges are not as smooth as I'd like; I will therefore work more quickly and make an effort to really focus on the edges to give them a smooth transition onto the skin. If I did this again, I wouldn't add so much black to the burn because I think it looks unnatural and too harsh; instead I would maybe use a darker red colour to add depth. I think that the glycerin really pulled the whole look together as it gave it a wetter look. 

Practising Ageing

Equipment:

-Supra colour palette

-Small detail brush

-Small flat brush

-Small fluffy brush

-Disposable mascara wand

-Duo lash glue

Step by step:

1. I added some purple supra colour under and around the eyes with a small detail brush and blended it in with my finger.

2. I then made a brown colour by mixing some blue, red and yellow supra colour together.

3. Using a small detail brush, I drew in anywhere that he would have wrinkles. To make this easier, I asked him to make exaggerated facial expressions and wherever the skin creased, I exaggerated. 

4. Using the same brown colour, I contoured on the temples, under the cheek bones, either side of the nose and under the jawline.

5. I contoured on either side of the chin to make it look like he has jowls. 

6. I next mixed some white and yellow supra colour and added the highlight anywhere that I wanted the face to come forwards. I put it underneath or beside any wrinkles to make them stand out and look a little more realistic.

7. I asked the model to scrunch up his lips and then I added some of the highlight colour on top so that when he relaxed his lips, there would be lines.

8. I blended out all the lines using my fingers and a fluffy brush.
9. I added some white supra colour to the eyebrows by adding some colour to a disposable mascara wand and brush it through the hairs.

10. To make the eye look more bruised, I added some yellow supra colour on the outside of the eye and blended it in with my fingers.
11. I also added some red supra colour very close to the lower lash line, a dot on the inner corner and some under the eye to make the eye look more sore. I, again, blended this in with my finger.

12. I blended the highlight and contour shades in even more as I thought they looked too harsh and fake.

13. To make the lips look more dry, I dabbed some duo lash glue over the lips and on the corners.
14. After the glue had dried, I started to pick and rub the lips so that the glue split and flaked.
15. I added some red supra colour to the parts where the glue had split to make it looks more sore.

16. I dabbed on some yellow supra colour to the corner of the mouth and blended it with my finger, to make it look like it was infected and pussing.

17. I thought that the yellow looked too bright, so I added some brown/grey supra colour to make it look more dirty.

I am really happy with how the eyes came out because I think it looks relatively natural, although next time I think I will add more red along the lash line and less yellow. I am not sure whether I will use this ageing technique in my Miss Havisham portrayal because I think it looks too unnatural for TV and film. I think this technique of drawing on wrinkles would work better for theatre where the makeup needs to be more exaggerated and heavy. If I were to use this technique, I would make it look a lot less obvious than this. I am happy with how the dry skin on his lips looks, but I don't like the way that the glue creates holes because that is not what actually happens when someone gets flakey lips. I am not happy with the 'infected' corner of the lips because I think it looks really fake and I feel like if that part of the mouth was dirty, then more of the face would also be dirty. 

How to: Dirt, Dry skin and Rashes

Equipment:
-Supra colour palette
-Foundation palette
-Foundation brush
-Stipple brush
-Small detail brush
-Flat brush
-Duo lash glue
-Black stipple sponge
-Brown hair spray
-Grey hair spray
-Isophrenol alcohol

Base Make-up

Step by Step:
1. Mix in a bit of white and yellow supra colour with your foundation colour.
2. Apply the foundation to the face using a foundation brush and then buff in with a stippling brush.
3. Ask the model to look down, then add some purple, grey and blue supra colour to make it look like eye bags.

4. Apply a brown/grey mix of supra colour under the cheek bones, on the temples and under the chin.
5. Cover the lips with the base colour.

Dry Skin

6. Tap on a thick layer of Duo lash glue to the lips and on the skin on the edges and wait for it to dry clear.

7. After the glue is dry, start to pick and pull at the glue so that it starts to peal and look rough. 

8. Add some red supra colour to the inner lip and in any holes of the glue to make it look sore and bloody.

9. Stipple on some blue/purple colour around the red patches and dry skin to make it look like its scabbing or bruised.

10. The same technique can be used on other parts of the face, for example, the cheek area as shown below.

Dirt

11. Spray on a can of brown hair spray to the skin to look like dirt.

12. Spray on some grey hair spray to make it look like more dirt and dust.

Rash

13. Mix some red supra colour with some isophrenol alcohol to make a watery liquid.
14. Using a stiff brush, flick the mixture onto the face to look like a sore, red rash.

I am really happy with the dark circles around the eyes because I think they look realistic, however to improve them, I would add more purple. I really like the positioning of the contouring as I think it really hollows out the face, however to improve it, I would use a more grey colour instead of the unnatural looking purple. I really like the dry skin on the inner part of her lips as I think it looks natural, however I found it difficult to make it look like dry skin on the rest of the face. I will add a thicker layer of the glue to the skin to make it easier to manipulate. I also found that the glue left a yellow tint to the skin which I don't like, so I will add foundation over it next time to make it blend in with the skin more seamlessly. I really don't like how the dirt turned out. I think it looks very unnatural and obviously sprayed on. If I were to do this again, I would smudge out some of the hair spray and use a lighter hand. I am quite happy with the rash, however I think it would have looked more realistic if there was some texture to the skin.

Early and Late Victorian Hair in Film

Early Victorian Hair

The Young Victoria, directed by Jean-Marc Vallee and written by Julian Fellowes, is a 2009 film based on Queen Victoria's early reign and her romance with Prince Albert. Queen Victoria is played by Emily Blunt and there were many hair and makeup artists that worked on the film, including Francesco Alberico, Kate Benton and Mandy Gold. 

The hair in the image below looks very similar to the hair style we had learned in lesson. It looks like the front half of the hair has been split down the middle and then put into one big curl on either side, towards the face. These front two curls have been swooped over her ears and into her bun at the back. The back section has been put into a ponytail at the back of the head and then it looks like it has been plaited and twisted into a bun shape. It looks like there is a hair net holding her bun together and there is a jewel encrusted hair accessory on top of the bun. A flower crown has been added around the front of her head to add decoration. 

https://ladiesof2318.files.wordpress.com/2011/10/the-
young-victoria-the-young-victoria-4872517-468-489.jpg

In this hair look, the front section has been given a middle parting and the top part of the hair has been smoothed down and then as it gets level with the ear a plait is formed and it is looped down and around her ears to be attached to the back bun. The back section has been put into a plait at the top of her head and then twisted into a bun. No hair accessories have been used in this hair style, so it has a relatively simple look for the Victorian era. 

http://images5.fanpop.com/image/photos/27400000/The-Y
oung-Victoria-the-young-victoria-27405487-2560-1701.jpg

I really like this hair look as I love the bright yellow colour used and the jewel accessory and the extravagant shaping of the bun. The front section of her hair has been put in a middle parting and it has been kept smooth on top and then curled into a ringlet on both sides. The back section has been put into a bunch on her crown. I am not completely sure what has been done to the hair at the back, however I think it has been separated into small sections and wrapped round plastic hair moulds to give the petal effect. A band of yellow flowers has been wrapped round the bun and a delicate head piece has been arranged round her head. 

http://images5.fanpop.com/image/photos/26700000/The-
Young-Victoria-the-young-victoria-26774271-897-496.jpg

Late Victorian Hair

The 2002 film Daniel Deronda was directed by Tom Hooper and written by Andrew Davies and George Eliot. The hair and makeup designer was Caroline Noble and the other makeup artists were Rebecca Cole, Ashley Johnson and Tapio Salmi. Gwendolen Harleth is played by Romola Garai and she is the character whose hair I will be looking at.


It looks like there is some padding or back combing under the hair at the front, because even though it looks smooth, it definitely has some extra height. It then looks like the rest of the hair has been curled and some of the curls has been gathered more tightly at the top and then the curls look looser and less contact further down. The front of the hair is very smooth because a hat needed to be added for decoration.

https://recycledfilms.files.wordpress.com/2011/01/daniel-deronda-4b.jpg

It looks like the side sections have been pulled tightly backwards and then the top, middle section has been curled and possibly pinned down to made it easier for the hat to sit on top. I then think there is a bun at the back with curled hair and that some more curls have been wrapped around it to make it look really big and full. The very bottom section looks like it has been curled and then let to hang down. There is a small jewelled accessory in the bun section to add decoration.

http://demodecouture.com/projects/gwendolen/gwendolen5.jpg

This hairstyle looks very similar to the one above, however I think that the bun is higher and more hair has been let down at the bottom. There is a centre parting and then the curls have been swooped very slightly to the side and joined with the massive curled bun. She isn't wearing a hat in this look, so more jewelled decoration has been added, for example, I can see a shiny butterfly clip in her hair. . 

http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ToB4gvsGyGo/UZG0xTVqVwI/
AAAAAAAAB-I/LnIKBIMzmqI/s1600/deronda47.jpg

Resources:

http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0962736/
http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0321897/fullcredits?ref_=tt_ov_st_sm