Step by Step of Miss Havisham Look

Equipment:
Make-up
-Foundation palette
-Contour palette
-Supra colour palette
-Loose translucent powder
-Duo lash glue
-Liquid latex
-White skin base
-Cape
-Flour and water
-Make-up wipes
-Bowl x2
-Buffing brush
-Contour brush
-Stippling brush
-Powder brush
-Spatular
-Hair clips
-Paint brush
-Small flat brush x2
-Small angled brush
-Disposable mascara wand

Hair
-Dry shampoo
-Hair pins
-Hair elastics
-Wig
-Wig cap
-Hair grips

Styling
-Wedding dress
-Necklace
-Veil

Step by step:
1. I applied a mixture of the white skin base and foundation colours Alabaster, FS38 and G177, to make her skin look slightly more pale than it was naturally. I did this with a Real Techniques bussing brush to buff it into the skin, taking it down to the neck. 
2. To achieve the dark circles, I took some purple from the supra colour palette on a small angled brush on her eyelids and on the inner half of her eye bags. I blended the colour in with my finger.
3. I then made a brown colour and mixed it in with some green and added it to the inner corner and a tiny bit in the middle of the eye bag with the same small angled brush. I blended the colour in with my finger.
4. I added a tiny bit of yellow on the outer half of the eye bags and on the inner corner with my finger.

5. I then added some red supra colour along her lash line with a small flat brush.

6. I powdered all around the eyes to make it look more skin-like and matte.

7. I then powdered the rest of the face and neck with a powder brush and translucent powder. 

8. I mixed some flour and water together in a bowl to a thin consistency. 

9. Using a spatula, I smoothed the mixture onto the areas where I wanted dry skin. I made sure that I blended out the edges to make it look more seamless and natural. 

10. I applied some liquid latex with a paint brush to the area I wanted the wart to be and then I added a very small amount of scrunched up tissue on top and secured the tissue by dabbing more liquid latex on top. Through out the makeup look, I kept going back to the wart and adding more latex to give it the height and texture I wanted.

11. I dabbed some red supra colour onto the lips and just outside the lip line to give a sore effect.

12. I then added some flour mixture on top, making sure that the edges were very smooth and blended.

13. Using my contour brush, I took some of the grey toned bronzer in my contour palette and contoured under the cheek bones, on the temples and under the chin. 

14. To emphasise the contour I went over it with some grey eyeshadow and the same brush.

15. I mixed some yellow and white supra colour together to make an off white colour. I then brushed this through the eyebrows with a disposable mascara wand. 

  

16. Using a stippling brush, I lightly dabbed some red supra colour on top of some of the dry patches around the face. 

17. Using a small flat brush, I added some red supra colour around the nostrils to make them looks sore. 

18. I added some duo lash glue to two patches on the bottom lip and let them dry. 

19. After the glue was dry I picked at some side of the glue, until I had made a cut effect, with one side lifted up.

20. Using a small flat brush, I put some red supra colour underneath the flaps to make them look like they were bleeding.

21. I next took the cape off and used the same mixture of white skin base and foundations to buff into the chest and any areas I thought would be shown in the final image. I used a buffing brush to do this.

22. I then used a big powder brush and some translucent powder to powder all over the chest, neck and shoulders.

23. I contoured the model's collar bones with some grey eye shadow and the contour brush.

24. I dabbed some red supra colour onto the two patches that I wanted there to be dry skin. I did this with my fingers.

25. I then added some flour mixture over the top with a spatular, making sure that the edges were blended. 

26. I used a small flat brush to add some red supra colour on the skin around the wart to make it look sore.

27. Then I added some purple/brown on the edges of the wart to add some dimension and to make it a realistic colour. 

28. I put on the wig cap to prep the hair for the wig. I made sure that all the hairs round the edges were tucked away. 

(Tip: Use some hair pins to secure the wig cap to the hair and make sure it is as close to the natural hair line as possible. Also make sure to keep the ears outside the wig cap.)

29. I then lined the wig up at the front of the head, asked my model to hold the front of the wig, and then pulled it to the back to cover the whole head. 

(Tip: Use some hair grips to secure the wig to the hair and wig cap by looping the grip under.)

30. Make sure the wig is in a rough centre parting and section off the two side sections and bring them forwards.

31. Take the rest of the hair up into a mid/high ponytail.

32. Plait the ponytail loosely and then twist it up into a bun. 

33. Pull some of the hairs out to give it a more messy look.

34. Use white supra colour on a disposable mascara wand to colour any hair that is showing around her neck.

35. Position the veil around the head and under the bun.

 Final Look

 

Close-ups of the Look 

 

Final Improvements:

I bought the wig that I'm using off Amazon and it was advertised as a zombie wig, therefore the top of the wig had a lot of height to it. I didn't think that this look was working very well for an early victorian hairstyle, so I sewed the inside of the wig so that it would sit flatter on the head. I am really happy with how the wig looks now and I think it is more accurate to the era. 

Another improvement would be to pick at the flour and break it up so that it looks more like flakey skin. I also felt that the duo lash glue on the lips, looking a bit like fangs, so I will make sure that the slit on the right is further over and that the other slit is closer to the middle.

Practising my Miss Havisham Look

After experimenting with some makeup looks on my model, I then made some changes to my face chart. I positioned the dry skin and red patches where I wanted, showed the colouring I wanted round the eyes and showed how I wanted the lips, i.e. I explained and showed exactly how I wanted the makeup to look on my face chart. 

I wanted to experiment with creating the look on my face chart on my model to see what I needed to improve and what order I wanted to apply the products in. In this practice, I also worked out how to achieve the wart effect on her skin. 

In this experiment, I applied the flour and water mixture first, waited for it to dry and then added the foundation colour on top. However I noticed that when I put the foundation on top, the flaky texture of the flour was covered, so it looked smoother and less dry.

To achieve the wart, I decided to use liquid latex and some tissue paper. I put some liquid latex on first with a paint brush and then I added a very small amount of tissue on top and secured the tissue by dabbing more liquid latex on top. Through out the makeup look, I kept going back to the wart and adding more latex to give it the height and texture I wanted. I used red supra colour to make it look sore around the outside of the wart and then I added some purple/brown on the edges of the wart to add some dimension and to make it a realistic colour. I am really happy with how the wart came out!

I added some supra colour to the eyes, using the colours and technique described in my last post on Miss Havisham. I then powdered the face and added some contour around her face with a grey eye shadow. I then used a stippling brush and dabbed some red supra colour on top of the flakey skin. I didn't like the effect that this gave, as I thought it looked too red and intense. I don't want the skin to look as inflamed as this, I just want it to look a bit sore. I decided to practise taking the makeup all the way to her clothing and I thought that I should add another patch of dry skin on her chest as I thought her skin looked too perfect if not. I am really happy with the necklace used here because it looks slightly old and dusty, but the jewels are still shiny, as described in the book. I used the duo lash glue to create the cut lip effect, as shown in a previous post.

I bought a wig cap to go on my model's head before I applied the wig as before i struggled with getting all the model's hair out of the way and smoothed down. The image below shows how the wig look when I first put it on. 

I decided that her hair would not have been re-done or touched up after her wedding day and so therefore whatever hair style Miss Havisham would have had in her hair would not look the same as it did on the day. I decided that she would have worn her hair in the traditional early victorian style, with a centre parting, tight curls down the side of her face, and the back of her hair in a bun. I thought that the curls would have dropped out and look a bit matted and that the bun would have, at least, started to fall out. 

Front view without veil.

Side view without veil.

The Final Look

I am really happy with how the look turned out, with the realistic looking wart, the messy grey wig and the pale skin, however I wasn't happy with how the dry skin looked. I noticed that when I put the foundation on top of the flour mixture, the flaky texture of the flour was covered, so it looked smoother and less dry. To solve this, I will try putting the foundation on first and then the flour over the top. I also thought that the dry skin looked too red and intense. I didn't want the skin to look as inflamed as this, I just wanted it to look a bit sore. I will therefore add less red next time and have a lighter hand when using my stippling brush.

Initially I had hoped to include her hands, in the image, resting on a crutch-headed stick, as this is how Miss Havisham is described in the film. However, I realised that if I wanted to include this in my final image, then the image would be very zoomed out and so the detailing of the face makeup would not be seen so well. The fact that I would have to add makeup to both her hands would also take up valuable time in my assessment and so I therefore decided to no longer use the crutch-headed stick in my final image. 

Estella: Hair Practice

For this hair style I took inspiration from a blogpost that I saw called 'Curly Late Victorian' by Locks Of Elegance. When I was looking at images of late Victorian hair, they looked very confusing and complicated, so I decided, instead, to search tutorials and this was my favourite one that I found. This link to the blog post is as follows: https://locksofelegance.wordpress.com/2014/11/08/curly-late-victorian/. 

Equipment:

-Hair clips

-Hair elastics

-Hair pins

-Tail comb

-Hair curlers

Step by step:

1. I first created a front section by drawing a line with my tail comb from ear to ear. I did this from the front of the ears as I didn't want it to be too thick of a section.

2. I then split this section into roughly two halts, however I will make this more precise in a later stage.

3. I then took a section behind the front section, leaving roughly two inches either side near the ears, of about an inch in depth.
4. I back combed this section with a tail comb in sections to give it a lot of volume.

5. I folded this back combed section backwards to make a quiff/beehive affect, and secured it at the back with a hair elastic and hair pins.

6. I found that the back combed section looked very messy and uneven, so I took a small section form the front section to act as a top layer. I smoothed the 'top layer' over the back combed hair to give it a smooth look.
7. I secured this extra hair with more hair pins.

8. Using my tail comb, I made the middle parting in the front section more even and straight.
9. I then twisted each side down and backwards, and pinned them at the back of the 'beehive'.

10. I didn't think that the hair at the back of the beehive was big/full enough, so I took a small rounded section from underneath the ponytail and then put all the pinned hair together with this new section and the ponytail and put them all into one ponytail.
11. I split this section into four and curled the top section towards the front, and the side sections towards the ears and pinned them all down with hair pins.
12. I curled the bottom section towards the face and pinned it on top of the curl above it, as shown in the image on the right.

13. I took a section from the top of the ears and made a ponytail with that hair.

15. I did the same with the ponytail above it, so I split the ponytail into four sections and curled the top section towards the face and the side sections outwards.
16. I then curled the bottom section and secured it on top of the curled section above.

17. I sectioned some hair off at the very bottom of the hair. It was about an inch in height.
18. I then split this section, vertically, in half.
19. I took both halves out, up and round the rest of the hair, so that the hair was left hanging in-between the two halves, and I secured the two halves together with a hair elastic.
20. I split the ponytail into four section and curled them all outwards, so up, down, and to the sides.
21. I then curled the rest of the hair that was left hanging down with a curling wand.

Back view.

Side view.

Front view.

I am so happy with how this hairstyle turned out! I especially love how the back of the hairstyle looked! I really like how intricate and detailed the back looks with the all the loops and curls. I really like how the curls with a waterfall effect. I really like how the sides have been pulled back into different sections because even though it has been pulled back, it still have some detail in it. The front of the hair would probably be my least favourite angle of this hairstyle as I think it looks quite plain and simply. In other late victorian hairstyles I have seen, the hair on top has also been curled and has more height than this. I also noticed that in most of the late victorian hairstyles I found, the fringes has been curled along the head, which I would love to experiment with. An improvement I would make to the back of the hairstyle would be to make sure that all the curls are even in size and that they are all positioned evenly and neatly. I will base my further experimentations on this hairstyle, but develop and improve it.